Quiet London: Eel Pie Island, a Community of Artists

Many years ago, when I moved to London,  as both a newly qualified nurse and a newly married 20 something, I lived in Twickenham.  In a tiny flat with no garden to call our own, this is where happily spent the  first 4 years of our married life.  During that time, we spent lots of time wandering by the Thames and in the Parks that line it, regularly looking across to the stretch of land called Eel Pie Island.

In all that time we never ventured across the bridge to the island, it wasn’t think kind of place you could just wander into. We knew that people worked there and we knew of Trevor Bayliss (he of wind up radio fame) and his connections with it, but that was all.  So when I received an invitation from the editor of a new book called ‘Carl does London Islands’ to go along to the book launch which just happened to been open studios days on Eel Pie Island I jumped at the chance.

Eel Pie Island – The History 

Eel Pie is the most famous island on the Thames which has much to do with its fascinating history involving rockstars, artists and bohemian living. In the 19th Century a hotel was built upon the island which was to become a holiday destination for Londoners wanting to escape the city.  In 1951 the hotel was bought by a local businessman and so began its life as a venue for jazz and blues throughout the 50’s and 60’s.  During its time as a well known music venue such household names as Rod Stewart, The Rolling Stones, Eric Clapton, The Who and Pink Floyd played there.  In fact Pete Townshend from The Who went onto name his publishing company Eel Pie Publishing and still owns Eel Pie Studios over on the mainland. By 1970, the Island had become the largest hippie commune in the UK.  Sadly the hotel was eventually destroyed by fire 140 years after it first opened

Eel Pie Island Today

Today the Island is home to 120 inhabitants who live in the 50 houses and a few houseboats that make up the Island.  It has retained its creative past and is a vibrant and active community of artists.

Crossing over the bridge you, enter via a single path which passes through the middle of the island.    The quirkiness the island is apparent very quickly as you walk past the pretty, brightly coloured homes of some of its residents.  It is green and leafy and on the hot summers day we visited almost tropical.

Walk past the houses and you come to the boatyard which is still a huge part of the Islands life. Apart from the usual moorings, boat repairs and boat building, the boat yard offers a particular service for Sikhs and HIndus.  It offers them the opportunity to scatter the ashes of their loved ones into the river Thames, aka the River Ganges.  Maybe you’ll think twice next time you face a paddle!

The boat yard leads to the part of the island which houses the studios of the artists and creatives who are lucky enough to work there.  There is an eclectic range of artists from potters and ceramicists to painters and sculptors and caricaturists.  We had a lovely time wandering into studies, chatting with the artists and enjoying the variety of work on show.  Works of art lined the small path, and paintings hung in trees and were propped up against each other.

The sense of this being an island  and a river community is clear from the boat paraphenalia which litter the island and is used to display or house art, or simply as ornamental features.  There is so much to look at and of course take pictures of too.

 

There is a peacefulness on the island, and even to the visitor the sense of community is clear.  As we walked along we saw artists and residents chatting together.  This is clearly a place where artists are inspired and encouraged by one another.

This is confirmed in an interview with the inventor, Trevor Bayliss, one of Eel Pie Islands most famous residents.  Trevor Bayliss bought a plot of land on Eel Pie Island in 1970 and went on to build his dream home there.  He lived and worked there until his recent death in March 2018. In an interview just before his death, Trevor described the island as “..a family.  We’re a very tight knit community and we’re all hands on  in our work, driven by achievement rather than by money.  There are artists, painters, potters and engineers like myself” ***

Visiting

It is generally accepted that Eel Pie is a private Island.

The best way visit is during one of the Eel Pie Island Artists Open Studios which happen a few times a year.  Check out the website to find out when the next Open Studios is scheduled for,

One of the best places to get a view of the island is from The Barmy Arms Pub, just across the river.  At this time of year an excellent place to gaze across and watch life on the river go by.

Finding out More

Eel Pie Island Museum, created by Eel Pie inhabitant Michele Whitby is said to be an excellent source of information and insight into the many stories which make up  the Island. I have yet to visit, but fully intend to in the future. It is on the mainland in Twickenham just a short walk from the bridge to Eel Pie Island

Later this week I will be sharing with you the book ‘Carl goes London Islands’ edited by Sasha Arms. If you love the river Thames like I do, or if you have ever been at all interested in what happens on the many islands dotted along the Thames then this is definitely one not to miss.  If you can’t wait for this, then read more about the book on the Carl goes London Islands website.

** you can also read the full interview with Trevor Bayliss in Carl goes London Islands**

I have previously written about my visit to other artist open studios including the brilliant Pullens Yard.