Reflections on Jerusalem and Beyond

I recently spent a wonderful few days in Jerusalem.  A place I had wanted to visit for some time.  It was in many ways a whirlwind of a trip, it was only 4 days. Yet there were many moments of calm reflection and contemplation within those days. I would challenge anyone to visit this complex, confusing ancient city and not feel stirred.  I am still processing much of what I saw and experienced.  I am hoping writing this will help with that whilst sharing with you some of the beauty and wonder of visiting Israel.

Jerusalem is an excellent long weekend destination.  It is only around a 5 hour flight from London (little more than Greece or Turkey) and yet the moment you set foot in this city it is clear you have travelled culturally much further.

Jerusalem – first impressions

Our arrival in Jerusalem co-incided with the start of Jewish Shabbat and (although we weren’t aware of this at the time), also the Jewish festival of Shavout. From the moment we arrived we began to experience and get a taste of the religious fervour which is very much alive in Jerusalem.

We extended our walk to dinner on our fist evening, by taking a detour to the Western Wall.  We walked through old Jerusalem and the labyrinth of small covered streets filled with muslim owned shops, the air thick with the smell of heat, and the remains of the day. Often we were overtaken by determined serious looking Jewish gentleman, young and old.  All sported beards and the traditional hair cut, short on top with long side ringlets. Most were dressed in sombre black. Long coats, and wide brimmed hats, and many clutched to themselves a copy of the Torah.  Others, were overshadowed by large, extravagant fur hats, sometimes pared with gold silk over coats, wrapped closely around them, dressing gown style.  All had very shiny shoes and were striding with purpose towards this the holiest place where Jews are permitted to pray. Often behind the men were groups of women and children. Smartly dressed women in beautifuly fitted, demure dresses pushing pushchairs. Siblings holding hands. Little boys already sporting the traditional haircut of their fathers and wearing white shirts and short knickerbockers. Little girls in pretty dresses with frills and bows.

We stood for what turned out to be our first of many visits to the Wall watching the Jewish people carrying out their ritual prayers and traditions. There was something entirely mesmerising about watching this uninhibited act of worship.  We had been in Jerusalem just a few short hours at this point and yet already we were perplexed and fascinated with the mystery of what we had seen.  Much to mull over as we enjoyed our first Shabbat prepared meal.

A Multi Faith City

For Christians, Sunday is the traditional day of worship. In Jerusalem the mix of Jews, Muslims and Christians mean the whole weekend is celebrated by one or other of the faith groups.  On a very beautiful, warm Sunday morning we found ourselves sitting outside a cafe sipping coffee in the Armenian quarter.  The dappled sunlight, cool, white buildings and tubs of flowers added to the gentleness of this moment.  A few footsteps from where we sat, an English church service was being conducted in a Christian church.  Simple hymns were sung joyfully and the music poured onto the street.  As we sat and listened, we heard the resounding and forceful Muslim call to prayer, and just a couple of streets away we could see the parade of Jewish families making their way to participate in their particular form of worship.  A melting pot of culture and and religion and belief and tradition, and all of it being played out before us, visiting observers.

The Garden of Gesthemane

In the Bible Gethsemane is named as the place where Jesus came to pray with his disciples before he was arrested. Like many other places in Jerusalem and Israel, whatever your particular beliefs, it would be hard not to acknowledge the poignancy and beauty of this well tended garden.  There was a tranquility enhanced by the ancient olive trees, gently swaying hollyhocks and paths leading to the church which sits at the foot of the Mount of Olives, providing a welcome relief from the blistering heat.  During our visit a service was being conducted. We sat quietly and enjoyed the cool  and a moment of peace as we watched those with an ardent and passionate faith expressing themselves in a place as special to them as the Western wall is to those of a Jewish faith.

Capernaum and The Sea of Galilee

If you have a christian faith then I suspect the village of Caperneum and The Sea of Galilee will feel very special.  Here it seems little has changed in two thousand years.  The sea is as blue and flat as the sky.  The water is  edged by a rocky shore and cacti and brilliant pink bourganvillea.  There are no pleasure cruisers or speed boats or in fact boats of any kind.  The calm beauty of this area made famous by the stories of Jesus, his disciples, stormy seas and loaves and fishes is perfect.

Parts of historic Capernaum have been excavated and preserved.  Remains of the house of St Peter and a Byzantine church are among the sights. Large stone pillars, rooms and areas where people lived and worked are clearly visible and bring this village to life. It takes very little to close your eyes and imagine yourself in the midst of a busy fishing village somewhere between the 2nd and 11th century when Capernaum was bustling and very much alive. Event though Capernaum is now a place for tourists and pilgrims, it has retained a peacefulness and the evidence and feeling of lives once lived her is tangible.

So what did I conclude?

I did not have any life changing moments or great religious experiences or spiritual enlightenment, which I suspect many go looking for when visiting Jerusalem.  However, I did experience a sense of great privilege at being able to visit this complicated land.  I also found myself often moved by scenes laid out before me which I know well from being taught bible stories from a young age.  I think I also now understand a little more of why ‘religion’ can sadly lead to such great division. Each day we were in Jerusalem, we witnessed Jewish and Muslim families living side by side and yet separately. Each worshiping their own God, each eating their own foods, each mixing with only their own types. And, perhaps most significantly, each convinced of their own particular claim to this important city. The harmony here feels fragile.

I found something admirable in the seriousness with which I saw many approaching their religion I appreciate why faith and tradition and ritual is so important. And yet I sometimes found myself questioning the lack of joy and freedom I felt I had also witnessed.

For me however, Jerusalem was a total joy.

You can find more of my Great Escapes here.