Great Escapes to Norfolk: Wells-next-the Sea

I can’t decide if Norfolk is having a moment right now, or if its been having a moment for a while and I just  haven’t noticed.  Whichever it is, the North Norfolk Coast has in recent months become a haven for city dwellers and locals alike.

Norfolk has always had significant royal connections with Sandringham the Queens country retreat being  a reason for many to visit.  In more recent years the presence of the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge has raised the profile of this quiet county, which for many has always seemed somewhat out on a limb.  The fact they chose to spend lockdown in their Norfolk home with their small children has cemented Norfolk’s place on ‘the popular county to visit list’ if indeed such a list exists!

Whether Norfolk itself is having a moment or not, the pretty seaside town of Wells-next-the-Sea certainly is.  This small town has a working harbour, a vast expanse of sandy beach, and a sea that retreats endlessly towards the horizon. This all sits rather prettily under a big, big Norfolk sky.  Wells now regularly features in glossy Sunday supplements and in instagram posts bearing hashtags such as #wellsnextthesealife.

So without giving too much away these are some of the things which make it such a special place.

The Quay

Along side Whitstable and St Ives it is one of the prettiest working fishing ports I know.  Little boats come in and out with the tide loading and unloading the days catch.  Crab and lobster pots sit haphazardly on top of one another, and in the near distance proudly stands the sculpture of the Lifeboat Horse. Made from steel and whisky barrels the Life boat Horse is a tribute to the working horses of Wells.  In the 1800’s these horses pulled a 33ft lifeboat two and a half miles to Holkham Gap where it was launched. These same horses were also used to haul heavy cargo in the harbour.

At low tide the sculpture is fully visible but as high tide is reached, it becomes partly submerged and appears to be swimming gracefully through the waves.

Surrounding the harbour are shops selling tooth achingly sweet rock and honeycombe, a small amusement arcade and of course fish and chip shops.  Sitting on the harbour wall eating pipingly hot, fresh fish, and salty chips is one of life’s real pleasures.  Crabbing is an essential activity here too.  Generations of children (including myself) have dangled lines bearing pieces of raw bacon over the harbour wall, hoping to secure a wriggling crab, only to immediately drop him back into the inky water until he is caught again.

The Town

Wells is a small seaside town and in the summer months can become very busy. Crowds have increased in recent years and the town has changed to accomadate them.  However, it has not lost any of its quintessential English charm.

The main street leads in a straight line from the harbour towards the generously proportioned green at the top of the town known as The Buttlands. This leafy green square is lined with elegant Georgian houses and boasts two excellent places to stay and eat, the Crown Hotel, a former coaching inn, and The Globe Inn. A meander around The Buttlands is a must if you dream of owning a house by the sea.  It is also a lovely escape from the bustle of the town.

The hight street is flanked with small independent stores selling the usual seaside paraphernalia along side contemporary boutiques and stylish gift shops.  About half way along, there is a wonderful (slightly fusty if I’m honest) second hand book shop stuffed to the brim with huge collections of well known and reliable authors such as Maeve Binchy, Rosamund Pilcher, Jo Jo Moyes, Lee Child and a generous offering of Agatha Christie.  I always pop in to stock up on comfort reads.  The greengrocers and butchers stock lots of local produce, and of course fish, shell fish and locally caught crab are readily available at various stalls around the quay.

Eating and Drinking

As I’ve mentioned more than once, fish and chips on the harbour wall is a must.  Fish and chips from the paper never taste better than when beside the sea.  You do need to have an eye on the greedy seagulls though.  They are always waiting for a carelessly dropped chip, and will swoop the moment they spot one.

For Coffee

If like me, coffee is important to you then try Flo and Joe . Great coffee, and excellent cakes all served inside or out.  A modern cafe with a clean contemporary interior which wouldn’t look out of place on any hipster high street.

There is also a cafe in the beach carpark which is reliable and handy for pre post beach walk drinks and ice creams.

For Lunch or Brunch

Look no further than Bang in Wells.  At the end of the high street this deceptively large cafe cum restaurant never disappoints. Warm friendly service and plenty of space. Crab sandwiches and salads are always my go to when by the sea and they are very good here. I am reliably informed the Eggs Benedict is delicious too.

For Dinner

Their are lots of options, but if a good pub is your thing then head for  The Crown or The Globe Inn.  Both serve  locally grown seasonal Norfolk produce. The Globe also has a good pizza menu served outside during the summer months

The Beach and Sea

It is of course the beach which so many flock to Wells for.  Like so much of the North Norfolk coast, the beach is an endless stretch of faded golden sand which at low tide reaches as far as the eye can see.  Many claim this part of the Norfolk coast is the best beach in Norfolk.  It would be very hard to disagree. Edged by shady pine trees and sand dunes perfect for small children to launch them selves from, makes the approach unique. A long row of colourful beach huts meander gently towards nearby Holkham making themselves the subject of endless photographs.

In Wells, there is no such thing as a quick paddle, as the walk to get to the sea can be somewhat long.  However as the tide goes out, it leaves channels and pools of water deep enough to swim in.  At a time of social distancing, there can be few places where it is as easy to social distance as it is on Wells beach.  Beach walks here can take all the time in the world, and with not much physical effort at all, it is possible to find yourself beautifully isolated and alone.

As a Norfolk girl, I have been going to Wells my whole life.  Sunday afternoons, school holidays, an evening visit for fish and chips, camping trips, family celebrations, a place to meet up with favourite friends.  Even as I write this my head is filled with memories of sunburnt legs sticking  to cheap vinyl car seats, egg sandwiches slightly gritty with sand and hair tangled and thick with salty sea water.

Recently, I was fortunate enough to spend some time in Wells staying on a camp site just minutes from the sea. Mostly warm sunny days, glorious sunsets, lots of walks on the beach and time with friends filled those days.  Once again I was reminded,  Wells has everything I want from a trip to any seaside town and I know it is somewhere I will always return.

If you enjoyed this, you might like to read recent posts on Cornwall and Whitstable