During that brief moment of blissful freedom we shared during the summer months, we had a lovely family visit to the National Trust site of Sutton Hoo in Suffolk. Despite having grown up in East Anglia, I confess I knew nothing of the Anglo Saxon Royal Burial Ground before we visited. As a consequence of the publicity surrounding ‘The Dig’, the Netflix Film, all about the discovery of the treasures there, everyone is now talking about Sutton Hoo. It could be said, Sutton Hoo is having a moment.
I watched the film recently and completely adored it. Maybe because I had visited the site, maybe because it brought back gorgeous memories of a warm sunny day with loved ones, or maybe, and just because it is a beautiful film. Probably a combination of all them all.
The Magic of Sutton Hoo
Sutton Hoo is a beautiful 255 acre estate, with endless views over the River Deben, and is home to one of the greatest archaeological discoveries of all time. For it is here that the ship burial of an Anglo-Saxon king and his treasures was discovered by Basil Brown on the then estate of Edith Pretty
Staying on a nearby campsite meant we could walk to Sutton Hoo, along a narrow lane edged by thickly, brambled hedgerows. This seemed an appropriate way to arrive. The warm, sunny morning with its soft light lent itself to the rural surroundings.
As you might expect from The National Trust, In ‘normal’ times there are displays and information available. During Covid times these are understandably closed. However the imposing full size sculpture of the majestic ship in the courtyard almost makes up for this. This is immediately visible on arrival and sets the tone for the visit.
To the uninitiated, of which I was certainly one, the burial site initially looks like nothing more than another East Anglian field intermittently disturbed by indeterminate mounds of earth. At first glance this may seem like nothing more than a pleasant place for a county walk. However, listen patiently for a while, and you can almost hear the creak of burnished wood and the laboured groans of men with sweat on their brow and pride in their hearts. Watch as in a final gesture of love and respect to their king, they faithfully pull the ship from its home on the river Deben to its final resting place at Sutton Hoo.
The walks around the site are through pretty english country side, across open fields and through shady woodland glades. Their are wide open spaces with stunning views across the Suffolk landscape to the river and plenty of places to stop a while. Clamber over stiles and draw close to ancient trees who have seen so much. Walk across land which even now has the promise of undiscovered secrets. Breathe in the peace and tranquility of this enchanting piece of England. Let imaginations wander, dream of those who have gone before unknowingly treading their stories into the soil. Become a part of the history and the magic of Sutton Hoo.
The Film
‘The Dig’, is inspired by real events, and despite not being filmed at Sutton Hoo (because it is permanently open to visitors) it captures the tranquility of the area, the golden light and the magic of this timeless place. Carey Mulligan plays Edith Pretty and portrays a woman of intelligence, determination and spirit. A woman ahead of her time in so many ways. Ralph Fiennes plays Basil Brown, the Suffolk born, self taught archaeologist. He has a stillness about him suited to the nature of the film and thankfully a very good Suffolk accent! The film blends historical fact with film makers imaginings resulting in a captivating story filled with anticipation, warmth and an obvious care for the true narrative.
The National Trust Website has lots of information about Sutton Hoo and the film.
There is also an interesting blog article on The British Museum Website about the the link between the film and the reality of Sutton Hoo.
