The ascent by foot to the entrance to Tintagel Castle is a steep one. It may have felt especially steep when I visited, as against my better judgement my husband had convinced me the best way to get from Camelford where were staying to Tintagel was by bicycle. Unsurprisingly in Cornwall, the journey was mainly up and down. As someone who mostly cycles around the reasonably flat streets of London, the hour long journey felt mostly up. On arrival, my legs were burning, my stomach was doing somersaults and I was feeling a little hot and bothered to say the least. After my husband had persuaded me not to ditch my city style bicycle in the nearest skip things soon improved. He even resisted saying ‘I told you so’ when we saw the limited amount of car parking. I graciously deigned to admit the cycling idea wasn’t such a bad one after all.
The History
Tintagel is a place where truth and legend are combined. In the early Middle Ages this stretch of coastline was known as the Cornish Kingdom of Dumonia. Since then it has been used as a royal citadel and trading port. After Tintagel Castle was abandoned, Medieval writers used it as a place for stories of kings and heroes. Tintagel was the setting for the legends of King Arthur. In the 13th century, a castle was built here by Richard, Earl of Cornwall. Today the remainsof the castle are owned and maintained by English Heritage.
The Approach
The approach to the caste is via a steep lane which leads from the village of Tintagel to the entrance and ticket office. The walk is a foretaste of what is to come. From the moment you step inside the gates of Tintagel Castle it becomes clear this is somewhere very special. The views across the castle and on to the sea and rugged North Cornish Coastline are sublime.
As you enter you will see that the Castle is now partly on an island which is accessed by a bridge erected in 2019 to allow easier access. Prior to this, access was via a hazardous set of steps which proved challenging. The bridge allows visitors to follow in the footsteps of Richard of Cornwall as he left the gatehouse and made his way to his more private island courtyard.
The Magic
As with all ‘tourist’ places it might be tempting to follow the crowds, take the same photos as everyone else and come away feeling you have ‘done’ Tintagel. I would suggest ignoring what everyone else is doing and find your own way. Make your own path and create your own magic as you meander amongst the ancient ruins and drink in the same views seen by those who inhabited the castle during its medieval period. Feel the swish of cloaks and the brush of tunics as the former inhabitants sweep past you in the great hall. Listen to the clatter of horses hooves as knights and noblemen arrive in the courtyard, and watch as ships approach in the distance, laden with sweetmeats and exotic fruits from foreign lands. Take time to absorb all that has gone before and see it through the eyes of those who have gone before you.
Low stone walls and are evidence of the various buildings and rooms which once existed within the castle walls. Even though there is little left of many of them, the vast scale of the castle is clear. The remains of a small chapel reveal a small simple building. Around it are grass covered foundations which would have been small medieval dwellings.
The Legends
King Arthur, excalibur, the knights of the round table and Merlin. All of these have filled the imaginations of those who love stories for hundreds of years. The legend of King Arthur came from 12th and 13th century literature. King Arthur is believed to have been conceived here. Arthur’s father Uther Pendragon was obsessed with the Duke of Cornwall’s wife Ingraine. When he heard the Duke had been killed he persuaded Merlin to use his magic and disguise him as the Duke so that Ingraine slept with him and Arthur was conceived.
There is a bronze sculpture of a hooded figure clasping a sword at the north west tip of the island. It is called Gallos, which means ‘power’ in Cornish. It is purposely ambiguous evoking the image of the historical kings of the Britons and King Arthur without being clear who it really is. It is an imposing statue and one to be viewed from every angle. The legends of Tintagel are clearly captured in this striking figure.
The Landscape
If you had never set foot in Cornwall and knew it only from books or films, I suspect you could not fail to recognise this coastline as Cornish. It is wild and rugged. Craggy coves, and rocks formed by the force of the south westerly winds from the Atlantic Ocean litter the headland. An abundance of wild flowers carpet the cliff tops and sea birds swoop and dive into the deep Cornish blue sea. There is no doubt that it truly deserves its status as an area of outstanding beauty. From every point of Tintagel Castle, the views are glorious. It becomes difficult to know when to stop taking photos and to just stop and stare and drink it all in.
I made a comment to one of the guides about the harsh weather she must experience here on occasion. She agreed but also pointed out that being able to share such an amazing place with visitors makes it all worthwhile. A genuine love and pride in the beauty of Tintagel Castle and the area is clear in all those who are able play a part in its history.
Merlin’s Cave
Below the castle is Haven beach, part of a natural cove. It is sheltered here and is easily reached from the visitors centre. There are surviving remains of 19th century platforms, but the real draw is Merlin’s Cave. The cave is entered by a dark rocky tunnel. It seems to be known as Merlin’s Cave a result of Lord Tennyson’s poems ‘Idylls of the King’. The first poem describes the wizard Merlin plucking baby Arthur from the sea.
There is a magic in the air at Tintagel Castle. Myths and legends permeate the ruined walls and weave their way into your consciousness. It does not take many steps of the imagination to feel yourself a part of the story of Tintagel. Despite holidaying in Cornwall for years, this was my first visit. If you too find yourself in this part of Cornwall, then I urge you to go.
Some of my other Cornwall Posts
Finding The Quieter Side of Cornwall
Barbara Hepworth Museum and Sculpture Garden