A Quiet Walk around the City of London

“To walk alone in London is the greatest rest”

-Virginia Wolf-

I often feel Virginia Wolf could have been speaking directly to me when she said ”To walk alone in London is the greatest rest”.  I wholeheartedly agree with her, and love nothing more than a solo meander around London’s streets and parks when ever I can.  There is a joy in having time to stop and stare or pause a while when ever you feel the need.  There is a freedom which comes from walking alone which allows time to think and reflect or simply  time to allow the mind to wander.

The city, or the business district of London is always interesting with its mix of very old and very new. The architecture is vibrant and varied and there is always something interesting to see.  With churches, pretty cafes and shop fronts, I think it perfectly meets the requirements of a quiet London walk.

As a starting and / or finishing point I would suggest The Ned Hotel.  If you happen to be meeting someone to walk with, this is also a lovely place to meet for Tea, coffee or cocktails.

The Ned Hotel

The Ned Hotel is the former Midland Bank and thankfully has retained many of its original features.  This is a big and busy hotel spread over 8 floors with a private members club.  Not the usual recommendation for someone who enjoys Quiet London, but it is a fun place to go at any time of day.

This is a stunning building, and it must have been a very beautiful bank. There is still much to remind you  what this once was.  As you step into the former banking hall you are greeted by shiny chestnut coloured wood, imposing clocks,  vast columns and a series of tellers counters where haughty bank clerks once sat.  In the middle is a central stage area where today bands play.

Perhaps the piece de resistance is the vault on the lower ground floor.  The first time I visited, my husband urged me to go to the toilets just so I could see the 20 tonne 2 meter wide vault door! The vault is now home to a bar only accessible to members but its great to get a little peek

Some music on a Saturday afternoon with  a warming glass of red wine on a chilly day in the heart of the Ned is a lovely thing.

St Stephens Walbrook

Start at the church of St Stephens Walbrook, it dates back to 1428. When the original church and graveyard were deemed too small for the parish. Robert Chicheley, a member of The Worshipful Company of Grocers donated this land where the Walbrook stream was known to once flow from the City Wall near Moorfields to the Thames.  It was at that time, one of a hundred churches in the square mile of the City of London.  In more recent history it is the birthplace of The Samaritans which was founded by the then rector in 1953.

Today it is open during the day to explore and for private prayer and contemplation.  On Thursday lunchtimes there are often performances of live choral music, and services continue during the week and on a Sunday.  It would be very easy to walk right past this little church which from the outside looks reasonably ordinary. Inside it is light and bright, white columns a simple alter and a beautiful intricately decorated domed ceiling make it very worth a visit.  It is just moments from The Ned.

The Royal Exchange

Just another couple of minutes from The Ned is the elegant Royal Exchange.  ‘Fabulous’ really is the adjective which  most fittingly describes this building.  This London landmark has lots of history.  Constructed in 1566 by a wealthy English banking merchant for the purpose of trading stocks, it was officially opened by Queen Elizabeth I in  1571 when it was awarded a royal title and a license to sell alcohol.  Along with one-third of the city, it was destroyed in the Great Fire of London. A second site was opened in 1669, which thrived with merchants and brokers.  It was destroyed yet again by fire in 1838, most likely caused by an overheated stove in Lloyd’s Coffee House on nearby Lombard Street.  The building we see today with its 8 column entrance was rebuilt and officially opened by Queen Victoria in 1844.

The Royal exchange has had a life as a trading centre, briefly as a theatre and today as a luxury shopping and dining destination.  Step inside and be stopped in your tracks by the light flooding in through the three stories of windows.  A Fortnum and Mason Bar takes the centre stage.  Bottles of champagne sparkle and comfortable blue velvet chairs beckon.  This is a classy place to have a drink. I confess I have yet to do so.  I love to walk through and stand and stare though, next time I must stop for a while.  Window shopping for Hermes scarves and Swiss watches (unless you are feeling especially flush) might be all most of us can manage, but this is a place anyone can wander through and enjoy the beauty of this stunning building.

 

St Dunstans in the East

There are very few places in London that have such tranquility as St Dunstans in the East.  It is about a 10 minute walk from The Ned and despite being in the heart of the city, it feels an absolute world away.

Tucked away behind a small entrance gate, surrounded by the city, high rise buildings and busy London Roads, resides this former church. Built originally in 1100 it was badly damaged in the Great Fire of London in 1666. Between 1695-1701 it was gradually put back together by Sir Christopher Wren only to be badly damaged again  275 years later during the blitz of the second world war. This time it was beyond repair and stood in ruins for many years.  In 1967, it was acquired by the City of London who turned it into a peaceful public garden.

Somewhere this beautiful and this photographed is never going to remain a secret but it does seem to have maintained a quietness which is found, only rarely in other places in London. To discover somewhere more tranquil  than this hidden garden in the heart of the city would be difficult.

Leadenhall Market

If you want to feel you have stepped back in time or onto a Harry Potter Film set then Leadenhall Market is the place to go.  Its yet another place steeped in history. It dates back to the 14th century, was originally a meat, poultry and game market, and is situated in what was the centre of Roman London. Today it still retains much of its victorian charm with the roof, cobbles and buildings  all preserved. The small shop fronts ooze Dickens, and the narrow streets I imagine would have been packet with vendors, hollering at passers by to buy their wares. Animals would  have darted between stalls and the noise and smell would have been very different to today when it is much quieter and refined!

At Christmas time Leadenhall Market is a lovely place to come, there is always a large christmas tree at the centre of the market visible from every entrance.

St Paul’s Cathedral

Also a 10 minute walk from The Ned is the imposing St Paul’s Cathedral and certainly not one to miss if you are in the area.  Its an iconic London sight with its huge dome standing proud.  It was in fact the tallest building in London until 1963. Today of course it is dwarfed by the many other city buildings which have sprung up over the years.  Despite this, it remains the most splendid and, and as it sits on the highest point of the city it can be easily spotted from both sides of the river.  The present cathedral was designed in the 17th century by Sir Christopher Wren and was part of a major rebuilding programme in the city after the Great Fire of London.

It has been the venue for a number of significant events over the years including Admiral Nelson and Sir Winston Churchill’s funerals; the wedding of Prince Charles and Lady Diana (who can forget the image of that crinkled dress wafting down aisle); jubilee celebrations for Queen Victoria and of course the silver, golden and jubilee celebrations for the present Queen.

Admission is not cheap at £17 a ticket but it is worth it if you really want to explore this beautiful building and understand its spiritual role in the city of London.  Of course if you just want to experience being inside the building then you could always go along to one of the services which are free!  If you don’t want to go in, there is a lovely little church yard in which to sit with a coffee or sandwich.  During spring the blossom around  St Pauls is lovely and its a beautiful place rest.

All of these places are within very easy reach of each other so there is no need to visit these places in any particular order.  Go in whichever way your instinct takes you.  Quiet walks are all about going where the mood takes you.   There is no pressure to go far at all, and sitting to ponder or take in the beauty of where you are is an essential ingredient of a quiet walk.