We have all become rather good at walking over the last year or so haven’t we. A daily walk has become the norm for so many of us. We have explored our local areas until we perhaps feel we can’t explore them any more. If we weren’t before, it seems the pandemic has turned us into a nation of walkers, or at least amblers.
A favourite place for walking is beside water, a coastal path or a walk along the beach might be the ultimate waterside walk. In London, we have to travel quite some way to get to the sea. Thankfully we don’t have to travel very far to get to water. The Thames cuts through the middle of London dividing us into a city of people who proudly say we live either north or south of the river. The Thames has miles of paths alongside it with ample places to stop and enjoy the delights of the river.
A stretch I have come to know well over the years is between Hammersmith and Chiswick. A stretch that many will know because of the Oxford-Cambridge boat race. The race passes under Hammersmith bridge and finishes at Chiswick bridge. As with all my quiet London walks, it is not about the distance, but about what you can see and enjoy along the way. These walks are designed for gentle wandering with lots of time for coffee and photographs.
Starting From Hammersmith
Hammersmith Tube station, is served by the District, Piccadilly and Hammersmith and City line and is a good starting point. The Piccadilly and District lines are situated within Hammersmith Broadway shopping centre, and the Hammersmith and City line is just across the road. There are also public toilets in the shopping centre. An essential at the beginning of any walk as far as I’m concerned.
There is also a bus station within Hammersmith broadway served by numerous buses if that is how you prefer to arrive.
Hammersmith Bridge
From the station , head towards Queen Caroline street and Hammersmith Bridge. Hammersmith Bridge is a 133 year old suspension bridge, one of the finest bridges in London. Unfortunately since 13th August 2020, because of serious safety concerns it has remained closed to pedestrians, cyclists and river traffic. During normal times it links Hammersmith and Fulham with Barnes in the borough of Richmond upon Thames, and is a vital connection between north and south of the river. The bridge was originally built for horses, carts and penny farthings and is a significant part of this area of London’s history. So do stop and enjoy it before moving on.
It is very usual to see rowers here in the early morning. There are rowing clubs at various points along this part of the Thames. Because they can no long go under Hammersmith bridge their passage is a little more limited. However to stand here awhile in the early morning light and watch the rhythmic passing of these aquatic athletes is a lovely calm way to begin the day.
One of the joyous things about this walk is that there is just as much to look at away from the river too. Plenty of pretty houses, which in spring and early summer are usually festooned in wisteria line the paths. In fact, the floral scent on a warm late April or early May morning is divine. I have often felt slightly envious of the lucky residents who sit on their balcony’s looking down on passers by.
Furnivall Gardens and Dove Passage
Stop too and look at the boats moored at the optimistically named hope pier. A higgledy piggledy array of colourful barges and canal boats seemingly almost on top of each other. If you have ever fancied river boat living, this would not be a bad place to be.
Furnivall gardens is a small park with blossom trees, benches and room for a picnic. It sits on what was once the mouth of Hammersmith Creek and a thriving fishing industry. It was created by Dr Fredrick Furnivall who was the co-founder of the Oxford English Dictionary. At the end of Furnivall Gardens is the tiny Dove Passage way leading to the entrance to the excellent Dove Public House .
There has been a pub on this site since the 17th century and it has been serving many of London’s writers, actors and politicians ever since. The front bar of the pub is listed in the Guinness book of Records as the smallest public bar in the United Kingdom. This is a very english, very charming pub which is certainly worth a visit for a cosy Sunday lunch in winter, or an early evening supper on the terrace on a warm summers evening. Stepping into The Dove is a little bit like stepping back in time, and it is not at all difficult to imagine the likes of local resident William Morris in conversation here over a pint of locally brewed beer.
Coffee Stops
Continue a little further enjoying the flow of the river until you come to Black Lion Lane, and The Elder Press Cafe. This light and airy cafe sells locally made seasonal produce and delicious coffee. During normal times they have seating inside and out. A Cafe Latte and a Choc Chip Cookie sat on a bench overlooking the river here is a fine thing.
Chiswick Mall and Blue Plaques
When you can tear yourself away from your riverside view, take a slow meander along Chiswick Mall. Be warned though, on occasion this area can flood so you won’t be able to get through and will have to make a short detour away from the river. I have had to do that on foot and on bicycle on a number of occasions. This is a good place for blue plaque spotting. Sir Emery Walker lived along here and you can usually visit his arts and crafts home which is wonderful.
This is such a gorgeous stretch to stroll along. Admire the large houses and look enviously at the river gardens on the river side. In the sunshine there is something pleasingly langourous about a slow walk here.
There are some gorgeous sweeping views of the river, and at low tide it’s quite fun to walk onto the ‘beach’ to see what you can find.
Church Street
A this point in the walk you can continue along the river, or turn right into church street itself. If you do decide to continue along the river make sure you have a little peek at Church street, as it is the oldest part of Chiswick. It is just moments away from the busy Hogarth Roundabout, but it has retained so much of its charm and village feel that you would never ever know this!
St Nicholas Parish Church is pretty church situated on the corner of church street. In February there are an abundance of hardy snowdrops, and in early spring swathes of daffodils. If you like the peace and mystery of a graveyard then do have a little potter around this one. There are some famous names buried here. You will find the tombs of both William Hogarth the painter and print maker, and James Abbot McNeil Whistler, the artist.
To Turnham Green
An excellent diversion here would be to visit William Hogarth’s House, it’s just moments from Church street on Hogarth lane. It was his ‘country’ home for the last 15 years of his life and contains a large collection of his work. It’s hard to imagine this as a country house now as it sits on one of London’s busiest roads!
From the Hogarth Roundabout, take the underpass to bring you out on Devonshire street. It looks fairly unpromising to begin with but stick with it and you will find yourself on a Chiswick street full of independent shops and cafes. There is a wonderful antique store here which usually has a collection of interesting bits and pieces outside it’s door to browse at. There are ample places to stop for lunch in Chiswick both on the high street and along Turnham Green Terrace, so take your pick.
BookShops
For me, no proper amble is complete without a visit to a book shop and thankfully Chiswick has plenty to choose from. There is a reliable Waterstones, and an independent store called Bookcase Chiswick which has a varied collection of books often at competitive prices. Fosters Bookshop is the oldest store in Chiswick and not to be missed. It specialises in antiquarian and first edition books with a leaning towards literature and arts. Finally Oxfam books, conveniently close to Turnham Green tube station, Ideal for picking up some reading material for your journey home.
Quiet walks are all about going where the mood takes you. There is no pressure to go far at all, and sitting to ponder or take in the beauty of where you are is an essential ingredient of a quiet walk. You might also enjoy my walk around the City of London and my walk from Putney Bridge to Fulham Palace.
